Silvia Club of NSW

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 Post subject: CAR STALLS? WTF
PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:14 pm 
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T28 Hybrid

Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:40 pm
Posts: 63
Location: Parramatta
Car: 180 Type X
hi guys... whenever im pushing my car around which involves alot of redlining my car seems to stall after i put it straight into nuteral..

this is how it is.. i push the car.. redlines once or twice.. then i have to come up to a set of lights... so i put it straight into nuteral and brake.. but as soon as i do this it stalls and engine cuts out.

the only way i can stop it from doing this is if i down gear.. but when i dont thrash it it doesnt do it..

my mate said its from the BOV

this true? and advice? :)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 10:19 pm
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Car: Skoda Octavia RS
Real Name: Iain
if its an externally venting BOV, then this MAY cause this problem. it probably needs oiling and/or cleaning.

you mentioned before that your car is stock. if its the stock BOV. then you may have other problems

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:47 pm 
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T28 Hybrid

Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:40 pm
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Location: Parramatta
Car: 180 Type X
ZEi20T wrote:
if its an externally venting BOV, then this MAY cause this problem. it probably needs oiling and/or cleaning.

you mentioned before that your car is stock. if its the stock BOV. then you may have other problems



its a turbo smart BOV.. ill get it removed and cleaned and see if it makes a difference.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 10:19 pm
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Car: Skoda Octavia RS
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you said before you car is stock in the boost thread. sounds like it isnt very stock afterall

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:05 pm 
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Twin T66
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:52 am
Posts: 1344
Car: CA18DET 180sx
BOV not shutting properly after venting does exactly this, mine was doing it when I installed the BOV, because the spring I was supplied with was to short, and didn't push the piston back to the closed position, but after pulling the valve apart, cleaning it, and stretching the spring a little, it was much better.

B.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:40 pm 
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T66 Hybrid
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 4:26 pm
Posts: 491
Location: western sydney
Car: S15
I have the same problem got the GFB 200SX BOV but it did it before i but this on. I have been told that if you put the Z32 AFM on it can stop the problem cant relly remember the reason why something about the air that doesnt go through the turbo gets pushed back up through the AFM and the stock afm struggles. This is what i was told, there is a specific name for what happens but im not sure what it is. A z32 AFM is about $400 dollars though, might as well get a aftermarket ECU and get rid of the AFM.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 11:21 pm
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Location: Sydney
Car: WGNC34,S14,AE86
no,you may as well re-circulate your BOV,and when it's time for an ecu,get a power fc.

microtechs and the like on sr's are like putting in C4's,a step backwards for anything other than idle or WOT driving,like on a strip.
engines running an afm work a LOT better than a map sensed setup ever can where driveability,precise tuning,and emissions are concerned.
why do you think more and more new cars are coming out with hot wire afms for their load signal? becasue it's more accurate. to pass the new emissions laws that are coming out,they need to be spot on with mixtures and the general engine tune. map sensors can't cut it anymore.


Justin...

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:14 pm 
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TO4
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Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 1:50 am
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Car: CBR250RR
just plumb back your BOV promblem solved, AFM & Atmospheric BOV do not mix.

If you like your whoosh/wank factor, I suggest you research and purchase yourself an ECU of your liking and price range that utilises a MAP sensor, that way you can remove your AFM and whoosh all you like.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:38 am 
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Car: Skoda Octavia RS
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well, my ato BOV works fine with my stock ecu.

anyway this thread was 6 months dead lol

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:58 pm 
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T66

Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:16 am
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Car: granpa's jz83 cressida
fergo308 wrote:
why do you think more and more new cars are coming out with hot wire afms for their load signal? becasue it's more accurate. to pass the new emissions laws that are coming out,they need to be spot on with mixtures and the general engine tune. map sensors can't cut it anymore.


Justin...



most new *common* cars ive seen are map sensor based. the reason powerfc's are considerd better is because of the amount of adjustable load points per map compared to a microtech and the like, they are more precise becase there is double the load points. i have next to std driveability with my microtech controled car, the tuner has alot todo with it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 2:48 pm 
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T28 Hybrid
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 5:10 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Sydney
Car: SR20DET Sileighty
I'm running an EMS Stinger ECU on my SR20, and besides not currently being a higher idle at cold starts, the car drives perfectly fine. It is MAP sensored.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:54 am 
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T28

Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:03 pm
Posts: 26
Car: S15
Sorry to bring this thread back up from the dead.. but exact same problem I have.

After I rev hard (above 5k) and brake/neutral/come to a stop - the car sometimes stalls on me, if not, drops to very low reves (3-500).

I have a blitz BOV atmo at the moment.

How do I go about cleaning/repairing it, so it will shut off completely? (adjusting spring, etc)

Cheers
Jon


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 10:19 pm
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Car: Skoda Octavia RS
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adjust the spring tension tighter and it might not stall

also clean the BOV as it might be jamming slightly open

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 4:47 pm 
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T28

Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:03 pm
Posts: 26
Car: S15
thx for the reply..

Is the spring tension the turning knob on top? picture below

How exactly do i CLEAN the bov?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:46 am 
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T03 Hybrid

Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 8:31 pm
Posts: 182
Location: South West
Car: s15
hi david


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