Silvia Club of NSW

hey guys, i dont actually own a 180 yet but im planing on bying one within the next couple of weeks. I checked out a 92 model SR20DET (manual), pretty much stock, besides a HKS blow-off valve and an air filter. 95,000ks on the clock. (in brisbane). I took it for a test drive and thought it was great. however towards the end of the drive it started jerking as if fuel wasnt coming through properly. it eventually got worse, however when the car was turned off for a minute then restared it was fine again for a while until the same problem happened again. the dealer told me that something must have been blocking the fuel flow or the filter. i went back today and was told that it was the filter and it had been replaced. Is this bullshit? Does this sound right or is the car fucked? The car was $14k but he settled at $12. Has anyone ever had this problem? im taking it for a drive tomorrow so ill see what happens. Is there any simple tests i can do to see if the engines been thrashed? If anyone could get back to me about this asap it would be much appreciated, thanks.

one thing that often causes that kind of effect is water in the ignition wiring..
If they've washed the engine the water sits on the coil packs and gets past them into the plug wells when the engine warms up, then you get misfiring...
It just needs a proper clean / dry out to solve..

Have a good drive anyway, and check for any strange noises, smoke, roughness, etc..

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The Engine Whisperer - fixer of things

a dirty fuel filter will do what was described but to be on the safe side get a mechanic to have a look it will cost to get done but it might save u in the long run if you know a mechanic ask him to do it 4 a case of beer its cheaper than the labour costs invoved i always get my cousin to check out my intended buys and haggle from there

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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

12k for a 92 180sx..
SR20DET ????

For a caryard 12K is quite cheap.
In NSW somethin like that will fetch 15 -plus @ the caryards.

Private is different story..

Make sure you full on check it ?? you don't want to buy an import lemon.. its going to kill you in parts ...

Someone had the same problem in this board..
Check the technical section...

Good luck

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Officer ! I swear its all factory standard.

Mate also check the chassis rails arent bent, easy evidence of accidents in its past. Also paint quality, does every panel match??? Also bring a second set of eyes, as previously stated a mechanic or do RACQ do inspections?? How do the rubber pedals look, too worn for 95k??? Good indication of wound back odo. Just listen for rough idle smell for running too rich and any non factory parts in place, ie its been modded and returned to stock for sale. Eg. different turbo dodgy exhaust afm etc. I recommend a compression test aswell.

A blocked fuel filter could easily cause the previously mentioned problem and Dumhed is spot on they are kinda careless when washing under bonnet. Takes a day or two to dry.

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"The opinions expressed by QIK180 are not necessarily the opinions of anyone"

I have found that imports in Brisbane are up to $5000 cheaper than in the southern states. I got mine about 2 years ago and is a 93 180sx with 39k on the clock and completely stock. Only mod was a turbo timer and was as new. Cost me $18000 which considering it so in such good nik with low km's seemed good. I just did 50k this month so hope to get a decent trade price when I trade up at the end of the year.

I've heard another way to spot an sr20det that's had a hard life is by the idle.

the idle should be completely still - the needle shouldn't budge one mm. If there's movement in the revs up and down while it's idling that is supposedly a bad sign, and means it's been thrashed. Anyone tell me if this is true or just codswhallop?

-J-

my needdle don't move at all but my iddling has a very slight beat to it..
Go the SR20DET

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Officer ! I swear its all factory standard.

the idle in my sr20de is pretty damn steady, but is sensitive to electrical things being turned on or off. This seems straight forward though.

A slightly lumpy idle can be had if there is a slight leak in the inlet plumbing, as more air is drawn in after the airflow meter and the car runs slightly rich. I did this once when accidently leaving a resonating chamber unattached, the one tucked down behind the radiator and fan shroud.

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S13 Silvia Tuning - The Definitive SR20 Modifying Site

most SR20DET i've heared have the very slight idle beat.
S13 - S14 - S15

nothing major but its not like other cars.
my civic and mirage and excel(yes I know - no comment - it was my transistion car) used to be a flat vrrrrrr

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Officer ! I swear its all factory standard.

when i put a atmo bov on my car it made it idle rough...

Look undr the car for oil leaks

they are a pain in the ass

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what also sounds like a rough idle can be a set of cams or some headwork done or cam gears fitted to the car or its just out of tune my de purrs like a kitten and will be getting cams and some head work done in the new year
ive found jun cams for a good price so im saving for them but im yet to decide on the new profile

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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."

nah average yard price for a 2.0L manual in brisbane is still 16-18$000 at a yard.

they arnt any cheaper up here. there is nothing to make them cheaper, compliancing etc still costs the same.

Tripper: what do you call good price for JUN cams? are those 256*

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"www.v-opt.co.jp"