Silvia Club of NSW

Why drive when you can drift?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 6:22 pm 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
30/11/2010

[QUOTE=vex33d;825735] I’m fairly happy with the setup, its practical and I have NO scrub! Win Win![/QUOTE]

I lied! :neutral:

I went for a drive over the weekend through Wisemans Ferry, Galston Gorge and Old Pac. Always great to get out for a drive, but here were the results.... :shock:

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Fun and games, but luckily no severed wires of the loom. :cool:

So with that, I decided it was well and truly time to relocate the loom above the seam shown below.

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Time to remove the drivers side guard, grind away the area shown in red (40mm), drill some holes in the seam using an 8mm drill bit and grab some cable ties... :P

Below are the results, no more scrub of the loom and saves having to relocate the loom through the firewall/engine bay...

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You'd never even know... I hope! :oops::D

Also passed rego inspection today, so that's always nice! :)

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Silvias? theyre like cheap t**i hookers, too many of em around and theyve been thrashed hard


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 6:25 pm 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
That brings us up-to-date... :D

Hope that you've enjoyed the read of my S14 project thus far. Plenty more driving and track days to come.

I've got three (3) track days planned at Wakefield between now and the end of April. Looking forward to that! 8)

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Silvias? theyre like cheap t**i hookers, too many of em around and theyve been thrashed hard


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 11:21 pm
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Car: WGNC34,S14,AE86
Nice work mate. I'm glad to see the car has been restored to it's former glory from the sorry state it was in when I got it,and promptly handed it over to you.

Keep the updates coming!


Justin...

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:26 pm 
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Great read mate, I love the direction the car is heading.

Keep us posted on how the Wakefield visits go!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 11:58 am 
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Quad T88
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nice work mate,
this happened on my S13 as well.
not a fun thing to fix when it eats thru multiple wires Lol


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 2:34 pm 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
Cheers for the comments/reception gents. So it goes on....

I lowered the S14 in rear to even out the uneven rake going on front to rear previously. I dropped it 15mm and LOVED the height it sat at, as a bonus, it tucked the rear wheels/tyres better to even out the guard fitment front to rear. But it wasn’t to be, the car scrubbed like a MOFO! Below is the result....

Tucking 17” tyre...

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I stiffened up the rear dampners to ¾ settings, but to no avail. To the S Chassis guys running low, how do you over come this PITA scrubbing? Cause at the moment the car is raised again as below! BOOOO!

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Rear guards...

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I’d been toying with the idea for some time as to whether I wanted to fit a wing to the S14. It came fitted with an OEM ADM S14 spoiler, but it looked dirtier than some of Kings Cross’ finest :twisted:, so it was promptly removed.

Previous...

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During removal...

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The spoiler holes were plugged with rubber grommets and siliconed into place. Over time, these holes had begun to show signs of surface rust. I made the decision to clean up the surface rust, paint the boot lid holes and fit a wing.

Removing the bootlid to swap the center light garnish and repair the surface rust....

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The finalists were, either an S14 JDM kouki wing shown below (my preference) or a Nismo wing as worn by the limited run Nismo 270R model (2nd and 3rd photos).
JDM Kouki wing...

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Nismo S14 wing...

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I met up with an old friend last night that I happened to have both a kouki set of taillights and a Nismo wing, both of which I happily took off his hands for a good price.

The kouki tails were fitted up to replace the tinted zenki tail lights that were always a temporary item. Also a hell of alot less defectable than the tinted items. Win Win!

Before Kouki Tails:

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After Kouki Tails:

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The Nismo wing is actually painted in the S14 Series II OEM colour of ‘Jungle Green’ as opposed to the OEM Series I colour that mine is of ‘Forest Green’, not of huge concern, because as seen by the pic’s there isn’t a big variation. This will be rectified when I have the car resprayed at a later date.

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The verdict? It’s replaces the cheap ass looking rubber grommets that previously adorned the bootlid, it’s a point of differentiation amongst other S14’s and most importantly I can now definitely carry greater speeds through all roundabouts across NSW! That’s what it’s all about isn’t it? :lol:

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Silvias? theyre like cheap t**i hookers, too many of em around and theyve been thrashed hard


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:19 pm 
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I like this

Very nice! Well done!

We need to catch up some time.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:46 am
Posts: 140
Location: Sydney NSW
Car: 1992 Nissan 180sx ::SiL80::
lookin super neat man nice work

Kurtis

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:54 am 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
Serial Killa wrote:
I like this

Very nice! Well done!

We need to catch up some time.


Heya Brendan, a catchup sounds good. I'll let you know when I'm next in Sydney and free!

In the final month of my first year of ownership, there has been lots of things going on with the car as of late (read expensive, time consuming and FUN!).

I have now commenced the first round of power modifications, now that I have feel I have a fair base to modify from and have increased the performance on both handling and braking front. In addition, I have increased longevity with the addition of a Rocker Arm Stopper (RAS) kit and enlarged and baffled sump to avoid engine starvation. The first round of power modifications consist of the usual ‘boost up’ mods of FMIC, fuel pump and Electronic Boost Controller (EBC).

So this arrived, a Greddy/Trust tube and fin LS Spec FMIC kit...

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RIP foggies!!!
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Decided against running a blow-off valve on this build so I needed to find something to bung the intercooler intake pipe. An umbella handle of all things was deemed the best fit!

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I painted the intercooler piping satin black to avoid unwanted attention...

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At the same time I sanded back the original battery tray (it was looking beyond its
best) and sprayed/cleared it...

Before...

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After...

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Front bumper refit minus OEM driving lights BOO!!! So I meshed the empty space to better hide the intercooler piping.

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I figured since the battery tray was to taken up smack bang in the middle by the intake intercooler piping that I relocate my battery to the boot. There are a number of reasons for doing this:

- Remove a heavy weight from high up in the very nose of the vehicle
- Better weight distribution
- I can now run a full sized battery with better cold crank capabilities

When relocating the battery there are a number of things to consider. The first, what
size cabling? I ran 2 gauge cabling, I did so as there is no large sound system and other than the starter motor, no huge electrical draw. The reason for the large cabling is also to avoid unnecessary resistance and reduce voltage drop over the greater distance.

Wiring run in a protecting ‘condom’ to avoid damage from debris on the underside of the vehicle..

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The next step where to run the cabling, either through the firewall and cabin like most do with big sound systems OR through the engine bay and under the vehicle along the chassis rail tucked up nice and high? I chose the latter as I don’t like big electrical fires should the wires insulation ever be compromised. Which brings me to my next point, I went in search of a 150AMP circuit breaker to avoid being stuck on the side of the road if the starter rely ever shorted, but upon my search, there was no readily available DC circuit breakers in that sizing. So I fitted up a 150AMP fuse and fuse holder nice and close to the battery in the boot. If you do the same, ENSURE you ALWAYS have a spare in the vehicle so you don’t ever get caught out!

Here’s a little something I prepared earlier...

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Bolted to the boot floor using four high tensile bolts PLUS the provided strap, you don’t want a battery sliding around/spilling in the boot!

Since then, I’ve had a surge of motivation to get lots of loose ends and little things that had bothered me previously (not enough to reduce driveability, but enough to sit in the back of the mind).

I realigned the front end better including grill, headlights, guards and bonnet, it’s no sitting perfect, but MUCH better then previous!

I then went and got myself a more supportive seat that is ADR approved a close match for OEM R34 GTR seats and uses a rotary knob to adjust the seat back vs. A crappy lever style adjuster that a number of aftermarket seats use.

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I figured whilst I had the drivers seat out, now would be the time to time to take apart
the interior and fit the BONDS bolt-in roll cage I had here for an S14/S15. Which led to this....

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Trial fitting the cage to mark the holes to be drilled...

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Relocating the internal wiring harness to allow the cages holes to be drilled....

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Always paint the underside of the body where holes have been drilled to avoid rust developing!

Painting the cage prior to installing and fitting protecting foam....

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I removed the seatbelts from the rear as well as the seat back, however, due to the nature of the build i.e. still street driven and registered, I didn’t feel the need to remove the sound deadening nor the seat base as although a little heavier, really doesn’t impact on my level of FUN! So this is the result...

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I have a track day at Wakefield on the 24th of this month, it’s a Thursday and I’ve got the all clear from work, oh yeah! Fingers crossed that the car performs mechanically as it’s picked up a nice rattle on startup that I’ve put down to one of two things, either the hydraulic lifters or a noisy VCT unit?

Before Wakefield, I’ll be giving the car the full once over and service. Inaddition, I’ll be installing the follow...
- Bosch 040 fuel pump
- DOT 5.1 Brake fluid
- NGK BKR6E-11 spark plugs

Then purchase/make and fit up:
- Z32 AFM and metal intake pipe (Purchased)
- Custom metal airbox to house above
- Greddy Profec boost controller (Purchased)
- Injectors
- Nistune
- Nissan shims to tighten up the OEM LSD

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keioffice wrote:
Silvias? theyre like cheap t**i hookers, too many of em around and theyve been thrashed hard


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:22 pm 
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TO4

Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 1:46 pm
Posts: 234
Car: 200sx S14.5
i just had to add this after reading your extensive build

your steady rebuilding of (or building up of) this s14 is quite inspiring!
it makes me really wanna work on my s14 too haha

did you learn everything through hands on over the years? by winging things and achieving decent results?

you seem to know a lot!!

but anyway, i've also got a quick question (for anyone really):
i've put some new wheels on my car, 17x9 +20
i've got 235/40 on the back and 215/45 on the front

and now i've encountered a slight understeer issue??
the front tyres are also brand new ku36's


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 11:21 pm
Posts: 5731
Location: Sydney
Car: WGNC34,S14,AE86
The understeer is not a surprise with narrower front tyres than the rears.

If you have adjustable swaybars you can tune some of it out but realistically you'll just have to alter your driving style to suit the setup.


Justin...

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 4:55 pm 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
rk2k9 wrote:
i just had to add this after reading your extensive build

your steady rebuilding of (or building up of) this s14 is quite inspiring!
it makes me really wanna work on my s14 too haha


WOW, thanks, that is great news and puts a smile on my face!

rk2k9 wrote:
did you learn everything through hands on over the years? by winging things and achieving decent results?

you seem to know a lot!!


To tell you the truth, I come from a background in I.T. and don't have any formal training. However, I'm a hands on type of guy and love all things automotive.

I simply arm myself with what I deem to be the right tool for the job and a factory workshop manual. Best of all, I take all of the things that I didn't get a chance to complete on my previous S14 and take a hand ot it on this S14. Worst case scenario, if I stuff up or break anything, the cars only mechanical and can be repaired.

rk2k9 wrote:
but anyway, i've also got a quick question (for anyone really):
i've put some new wheels on my car, 17x9 +20
i've got 235/40 on the back and 215/45 on the front

and now i've encountered a slight understeer issue??
the front tyres are also brand new ku36's


I'm with Justin, I'd say that it's either due to the narrow tyre width up front and/or your alignment settings. I'm running KU31 tyres front and rear in 235/40/R17's sizing and 2' neg camber up front with no real understeer cateristics to speak of.

But we'll see next Thursday the 24th at Wakefield. Time to put the new mods to the test.... :D

Cage painted, fitted and padded in addition to the new seat fitted... Cause everyone loves photos....

Image

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Silvias? theyre like cheap t**i hookers, too many of em around and theyve been thrashed hard


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 3:04 pm 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
Since fitting the cage and the removal of the rear seats, I've noticed two things. The first was greater road noise, no real drama at all as the car isn't built for comfort. The second and MUCH more annoying is that without the rear seat back fitted the rear parcel tray rattles around CrAzZily!

To somewhat reduce/muffle the effects of the rattling parcel tray and make the 3.5 hour each way trip to Wakefield next week more bearable, I decided it time to install a 'divider'.

A trip to the local Bunnings netted the following for less than $16, 3mm MDF board and grey unpatterned carpet to suit. I decided against fitting an alloy sheet as others tend to, I prefer the bare alloy look over carpet, however for my intended purpose, the MDF board and carpet is the better sound insulator.

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The area between cabin and boot to be covered...

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The raw materials to be cut/fixed to fit...

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I utilized liquid nails to fix the cut carpet to the MDF board. I double layed the carpet on both sides to better insulate against noise.

All finished and fixed into place using gal self tapping screws with rubber o-ring/washer...

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Next mod, onto the Bosch 040 fuel pump install...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
The count down has now begun! This coming Thursday (24th) I'll be at Wakefield, so I'm madly trying to finish up my list of items to action before Wednesday's end. Secondly, I'm praying for no rain on Thurs, but fun will be had regardless...

One of those items on the list was to install the Bosch 040 fuel pump to ensure fuel flow is upto scratch to protect against fuel starvation. Now I could have chosen a Nismo direct replacement pump or Walbro pump that are both direct dropins. However the Nismo is more than 3x what I paid for the 040 and the Walbro's I've not trusted since the imitations flooded the market back in 2006.

The thing with the Bosch 040 fuel pumps intank of Silvia's is that they are not only noisy, but they are also not a driect dropin and require modification. Here's my brief explanation.

First, start by removing the boot carpet lining to expose the four phillips head screws holding down the plate.

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Removing the cover plate exposes the top of the fuel tank and has a threaded collar that allows access to the inner tank. Remove fuel lines and electrical plugs.

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Here we can see into the tank and the fuel float and bracket that holds the fuel pump cradle. Remove the fuel pump cradle by lifting upward and out.

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Once out we can see the first problem of the OEM fuel pump cradle and pump vs. the bosch replacement pump. The OEM fuel pump has a filter sock/pickup that sits a good four inches lower than the Bosch will if mounted in the factory location. This would create a problem of fuel surge at fuel levels less than a quarter of a tank.

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Once the factory pump has been removed from the cradle, here we can see that the base of the cradle is used to support to weight of the fuel pump. To mount the 040 fuel pump to sit in an appropriate lower location, I flattened out the cradle and trimmed the excess material to allow lower mounting of the fuel pump.

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The next modification required is the electrical terminals, in this instance I utilized two ring terminals that I both crimped AND soldered the terminals to ensure a great contact a I should never be standed on the side of the road with no fuel flow.

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Finally, I mounted the Bosch fuel pump with a quality stainless hose clamp with rubber fuel line opened and inserted between the cradle, fuel pump and hose clamp to reduce unwanted vibration and noise. Ensure the hose clamp is mounted below the lip on the fuel pump, to ensure the pump doesn't walk within the tank.

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That's it for the fuel pump install.

Also flushed and changed the coolant with Nissan longlife to keep the car cool on track one would hope.

Now wishing away the days til Thursday morning.... :)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:27 pm 
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T04 Hybrid
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:34 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Car: Zenki S14
As an update, I went and bought a 'Mechpro' one man bleeder kit from Repco, with one way valve to stop air entering the system upon releasing the brake pedal.

As brakes are of fairly high importance :), and with fuild of an unknown age in the master cyclinder. As brake fuild has a great absorbence for water that reduces its boiling point and effectivness. I decided it best before trying my hand at circuit racing to replace the brake fuild with new fuild with a high boiling point.

One Man Bleeder kit with one way valve:
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Using the One Man Bleeder kit and a second set of hands in the form of my father, as despite the bleeder kit it's still easier with a second person unless highly flexible. :) I replaced the fuild with PBR Gold D.O.T 5.1 fuild.

It also gave a chance to give everything the once over, brake lines, pads, calipers and suspension components. The only point of concern is that the rotors are slightly glazed and could do with a machine, but at such short notice with have to do!

Bring on tomorrow...

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