Silvia Club of NSW

Why drive when you can drift?
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:51 am 
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Overlord
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Car: DeathWagon + Sil80 + Nugget
Another even better way to make it slower is to put an RB in it

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Sil80 - SR20DET 231rwkw
Silvia Race Nugget - SR20DET 225rwkw
Stagea - DeathWagon - RB25DET 185rwkw.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:54 am 
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Twin T04
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Location: Rouse Hill, NSW
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if by slower you mean faster then ill agree with you :)

whats the point of pulling good times if the car doesnt look baller while doing it? :D

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 11:53 am 
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Takumi
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it's actually pretty hard to tell the difference in ride height if the car's going past you at 180+

If you can work out a nice way to fix the suspension geometry after lowering it then there will be small gains to be had from lower ride height.

One of the reasons this car is quick though is that I didn't lower it beyond where the suspension works properly.
It can also jump ripple strips without damage, and get on and off a trailer easily - which means more fun and more fast without heaps of extra hassles.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 11:57 am 
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Overlord
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Yep agreed. The best ride height for handling is stock as possible to keep the suspension geometry as Nissan intended. Its also good to help prevent tyre scrubbing and other annoying issues with lowered cars

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Sil80 - SR20DET 231rwkw
Silvia Race Nugget - SR20DET 225rwkw
Stagea - DeathWagon - RB25DET 185rwkw.

My Lame Gallery: http://www.toomuchboost.com/gallery/main.php


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:08 pm 
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T88 Hybrid
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Location: Northern Beaches
Car: A31 Drift pig
Lookin great now Dave :)! All you need now is 215's stretched and lots of low and camber...

Dumhed I know it may mean more slow, but he'll be doing it in style :P !!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:57 pm 
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Car: WGNC34,S14,AE86
bosozoku style FTL.

this isn't the 70's,there are a wide range of tyre sizes available these days,there's no valid reason to stretch a 185 onto a 9" wide rim... the whole point of wider than standard wheels is to have wider tyres.... funnily enough. extra grip is FTW,super-stretch is lame,and for posing before driving.

a 45profile tyre's sidewall is generally plenty stiff enough already,it doesn't need to be ridiculously stretched in some misguided attempt at better steering feel.


Justin...

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 3:27 pm
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Location: here
Car: Hello Kitty!
This weekends work:

R34 Gtt calipers, pmu scr pro rotors and SBS carbon ceramic pads installed on the passenger side. Drill bit decided to blunt so i'll need to get it sharpened or buy a new one before doing the drivers side

Image

I also discovered the hats are about 5mm thicker on the pmu rotors which explains why i have the same clearance with only a 25mm spacer as i did previously with the r32 gtr brakes and a 30mm spacer....

Re painted the boot in silver hammer tone. Previously done in red hammer tone (i left the fuel tank cover for a sample). This is the first coat, needs a second in a few areas. I'll be carrying this all the way through the interior. I like it. much better than the rust/red colour. Also much better coverage than the red shit.

Image

I also finished stripping out the redundant dash wiring and reinstalled only to find i had removed the cluster lighting and tail lights power so had to fix that. It all works again now.

Added in the looms for the boost controller and boost gauge (not needed atm but it's easier to do now with the loom exposed while i remember what each wire is)

Swapped the top block coolant thingy for an s15 turbo version so i could install my water temp gauge sender where the water feed for the turbo normally goes.

got sun burned, drank lots of beer.

New priorities:

Discovered the springs aren't captive at the front end, and i have followed this car around a track and watched it lift inside wheels... Funnily it's only about 10mm on the passenger side but close to an inch on the drivers side. So new front struts/springs are to be considered sooner than originally planned.

Oh and very impressed that dumhed actually used a proper flare and hard line on the 32gtr brake conversion rather than a cut down banjo.

That is all...

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:44 pm 
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Takumi
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Location: building!
Car: Silvia
any reason to further upgrade the brakes?

I had major problems getting those brakes to work because they never get hot!

You don't have to worry about the non captive springs at the front.
When you jack the car up they'll come loose, but when it's on the track and lifting a wheel, remember that the swaybar is under full load and is trying to pull the inside wheel up.

All of this stuff has been considered before and is how it is because it works better than anything else I've tried (including other coilovers, bilsteins, etc)


Also, I recommend black for the interior, because you don't get the sun shining in on it and reflecting in the windscreen :)

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:04 pm 
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mostly because i have them and the pads are near new. Plus i can sell off the gtr brakes for dollars :P You never told me what pads were in it either! (they are buggered btw)

And they were always going to go on at some stage. Once i saw the pads were gone i decided sooner rather than later

The sbs pads i found were pretty ordinary once they got hot (very wooden) but felt really good and bitey from dead cold. That may change as they wear in a bit more. I took a punt on them in the 32 and they didn't really suit but i think they should work well with hello kitty

Funnily enough they have the pad sitting closer to the center (in the same way your previous hawk's were) so they must be designed for something else. Probably a dodge.....

What rear pads were you running? They're shagged and need replacing as well.

black is too hot. TMB's nugget is a sauna on a warmish day. I don't want to be in it on a 30 plus day, i'll probably pass out.

Plus i already started the silver on the interior.....

It'll actually be 2 tone :)

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:30 pm 
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Takumi
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Location: building!
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if you want it cooler you'll need to paint the outside a lighter colour :P

The rears were just standard I think.
I can't remember if I ever changed them (if so they were probably S15 standard ones or something)

Hopefully your new ones work ok anyway :)
If not you can just buy some cheapo Hawks or some factory ones and they should do the job.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:31 pm 
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Overlord
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Car: DeathWagon + Sil80 + Nugget
Anyone who knows what brand rear pads they have are lame

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Sil80 - SR20DET 231rwkw
Silvia Race Nugget - SR20DET 225rwkw
Stagea - DeathWagon - RB25DET 185rwkw.

My Lame Gallery: http://www.toomuchboost.com/gallery/main.php


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:38 pm 
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Car: Hello Kitty!
guess i'm lame. In ascending order

rb74s
ferodo zeros
delphi something or others (550 degree rated)
zeros
zeros
whatever was on the car when i bought it (lasted 4 years btw)

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:39 pm 
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you should ban yourself for knowing that

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:50 pm 
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when i'm buying new rear pads every second month it sticks

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:52 pm 
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Overlord
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Location: Leading
Car: DeathWagon + Sil80 + Nugget
I just find another set on the floor of the garage and chuck them in.

Makes racing more challenging

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Disclaimer: I actually DO know everything

Sil80 - SR20DET 231rwkw
Silvia Race Nugget - SR20DET 225rwkw
Stagea - DeathWagon - RB25DET 185rwkw.

My Lame Gallery: http://www.toomuchboost.com/gallery/main.php


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