Silvia Club of NSW

Why drive when you can drift?
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 10:48 pm 
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I would recommend setting up the boost controller on a dyno, particularly at higher boost levels, at the same time as you are tuning the ecu.

What that allows you to do is get a bit of a base tune in the ecu, run it up, check that it's safe, adjust it, then add a bit of boost, run it up again, adjust if necessary, then check it, add boost, run it again.......you get the idea.

What you are doing is tuning the whole area of the map that you are using. The afm doesn't care what boost is being run, it only cares about how much air is being sucked into the engine and you are tuning to suit that airflow.

If you get a tune done running a maximum of 18psi boost for example you can safely run anywhere from 0-18 psi as the whole of that area of the map has been tuned.

Short of drawing a picture thats about the best i can explain it. It's actually pretty simple once you've seen how the mapping works and where in the map the ecu is looking as it runs through the map.

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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2006 11:01 pm 
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thanks dave, big help.

Now i just gotta decide which controller to get :P

when you say you've used both blitz and apexi, which blitz one did you use?


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 1:00 am 
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hey joel,

I've just gone through this whole debate. I came down to the avc-r, profec b, and blitz dual sbc type R.

*Profec B is good, dual solinoid, cheap.
*AVC-R apparently harder to setup. very expensive, lots of features that people don't use.
*Blitz - dual solinoid (type r - single only on the type s), very easy to set. mate also has the type s on his gtr and seems to work very well, and can bring boost on nicely with 0 spike.

In the end I decided on a Blitz Type R (needed the bigger model, because of the boost level I run) should be here tomorrow, and installed tomorrow night knowing me. So I'll let you know how it goes ;)

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 8:22 am 
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I've only used blitz controllers, tmb has run both.

I highly recommend the blitz if you are going to get one before a power fc. If you get a pfc then just get the boost contoller add on.

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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 11:44 am 
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ive read a few complaints about the PFC, anyone have any positive experiences of them ?

how do you tune, what abilities does it have ? can it be tuned via hand controller ?


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2006 10:55 pm 
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i got a Electronic blitz sbc-dc if anyone is interested. not used for long and works very well


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 1:51 am 
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well the Type R went in tonight.

Overall, very happy with how easy it is to setup, display is nice and simple and the menu setup is good. wiring it in was also a breeze, much better than my older HKS model.

as for boost control, at low levels of boost it works very nicely and brings boost on nice and quick will almost 0 spike. as for when i'm running 18, i still get small hunting problems, but probably .5psi either way of 18. I'm putting this down to the size of the turbo more than the controller (avo 450hp). Overall very happy, and would recommend them.

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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 9:57 am 
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how do you figure its the turbo ? boost controllers work in boost pressure not flow

but half a psi is being pedantic anyway :P


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 10:51 am 
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I'm working its the turbo because on a different setup, there doesn't seem to be this hunting issue.

My line of thought was that because of the size of the turbo, that when the solinoid opens to allow the higher flow its unable to "catch" the turbo, so you get the small spike, over, then compensates too much which gives the small drop.

As for being pedantic, its basically because I was getting a more solid (constant) control from a bleed valve, and I thought that the ebc should be offering me better control ;)

I could be wrong?

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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 11:48 am 
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the small spike and overcompensate usually indicates the 'gain' function is too high, as its opening the wastegate too late and not progressively enough. nothing to do with the turbo itself

you may get a flickering effect of the needle on the boost gauge on an ebc compared to a bleed valve simply because the ebc has a pulsing solenoid controlling the pressure, where as a bleed valve is mechanical and has a linear characteristic but allows less control

although a good ebc, with good solenoids working in the right range - setup correctly, should be better then a bleed !


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 2:11 pm 
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Don't get me wrong it is working better than the bleed valve it is bringing boost on faster, and although fluctuating, seems to hold 18psi to redline.

If i increase the gain any higher than it is now, i get large spiking issues. I had not thought about the pulsating of the gates being the cause. You're probably right.

In regards to me blaming the turbo i assume with using a smaller turbo things such as gain etc could be a little easier to setup a control.

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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 3:50 pm 
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you should be able to reduce spike all together by reducing the gain a little bit, without any sacrifice at how fast it builds boost

nah turbo size shouldnt really matter, although i guess a laggier turbo might spike less because it gives the boost controller more time to respond but i would say that would be negligible. wastegate spring pressure can have an affect too on how it behaves


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 10:46 pm 
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ok, I think ive made my mind up, going for the blitz ID3, the icolor was tempting, but power curves and all that are abit of a hoax i recon, how acurate can they be, and you have to buy a separate solinoid or something to be able to use that function anyway. I reason im thinking blitz over avcr is that it doesnt have to be wire into the computer wiring, is that correct?

One more question you guys might be able to answer.

Do either the avcr or the blitz sbc have an option that you can run different boosts in different gears?


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 11:18 pm 
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nope they dont offer different boost for different gears.. none of the major brand name ones do AFAIK

its technically difficult, because in a manual car there isnt anything there that tells you what gear your in. the only way i can think one would work is that it takes an rpm signal, and speed signal, and matches the ratio to the gear your in. but then its different for all cars, including cars with different sized wheels, so it would need calibration...

there was a boost controller being sold on ns.com, that apparently had this feature. and when i asked how it worked - they said with rpm and speed signal, i was a bit skeptical though - and it could only be tuned with a handheld nintendo thingy :roll:

my IEBC has 2 boost maps, and you can switch between the two with normal switch, it just switches between 2 wires. so i figure i could put a push button instead of a switch on it, mount it on the steering wheel, and when held down give me low boost map while in first and second, then full boost map when i release for higher gears. not awesome practical but can be purposeful at times..

or you could hook up a mechanical switch to your gear stick to activate between the 2 maps (from memory it seperated first gear from the others so first ran a different boost then higher gears, and the switch was hooked up to a dual stage turbosmart), i remember there was a really old HOT 4's ( :o ) article where they installed one onto a turbo GT starlet.

if the boost controller you get has a mechanical switch instead of an electronic one that switches between maps, then im sure you could hard wire the above configurations into it as well


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 11:26 pm 
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and as for the blitz one not having to be spliced into the ecu wiring, is this correct, as opposed to the avcr?


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