Silvia Club of NSW

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 Post subject: Changing Brake Pads
PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 12:01 pm 
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Twin T51
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Joined: Sun Feb 29, 2004 5:57 pm
Posts: 1005
Car: S13 K
*Vehicle: 1991 Nissan Silvia - SR20DET
*Installers: David & Aaron (Hilarious Motorsport)
*Brake pads used: Front - Ferodo DS2500 (Bendix Part Number - DB1232)
Rear - Ferodo Xcel (Bendix Part Number - DB325)
*Tools: Jack, Jack Stands, Wheel Brace, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, G-Clamp, Needle Nose Pliers, Metho


General
1. Loosen the wheel nuts on the wheels you are going to be taking off.

2. Jack the car up (we used a trolley jack to make this more simple, you can do it with a normal jack on each side though).

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3. Place jack stands under solid supports for the car, lower the jack and make sure the car sits solidly on the stands.

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4. Remove the wheels that you are working on.

Fronts
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1. Remove the 2x14mm bolts that hold the top of the caliper on. Slide this part up and then move to the side.

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2. Slide the old brake pads out. Use a screwdriver to help if needed.

3. Remove and clean (metho) the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper and hold the pads in place, and one on the brake pad itself that the piston presses on (remember where each was located).

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4. Remove the 2x19mm bolts on the lower part of the caliper. This should come off completely then.

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5. Find a screw to fit the hole pictured (most nissan 14mm bolts should fit), and screw this into the disc on one side in the small holes on them, then if you have another one, do the same to the other side and lever it off by going one turn each until the disc pops free. This is used to get the disc to seperate from the hub. Remove the disc and label which side it came from (incase you have to put them back on for any reason).

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6. Take the discs to be machined, this cost about $33 per pair at a local shop. Make sure you check if they are on their minimum or if they are close. These ones are on their minimum after being machined.

7. Place the correct disc back on the hub.
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8. Replace the lower part of the caliper (removed in step 4) and bolt into place.

9. Replace the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper (removed in step 3).

10. Replace the baking plate on the new brake pad (removed in step 3).

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11. Insert the new brake pads into the metal plates.

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12. On the upper caliper you need to compress the piston so that it will fit back over the new pads as they are going to be thicker than the ones you took off. To compress the piston, use a G-Clamp (or something simlar) and compress it back in until it will fit over the new pads.

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13. Replace the upper caliper and bolt back in (removed in step 1).

Rears (Note: this process is mostly the same as the fronts...)
1. Remove the 2x14mm bolts that hold the top of the caliper on. Slide this part up and then move to the side.

2. Slide the old brake pads out.

3. Remove and clean (metho) the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper.

4. Remove the 2x17mm bolts on the lower caliper.

5. Find a screw to fit the hole pictured (these are smaller than the fronts, most nissan 12mm bolts should fit), screw the disc off using the same method as the fronts.

6. Take the discs to be machined.

7. Place the correct disc back on the hub.

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8. Replace the lower part of the caliper (removed in step 4) and bolt into place.

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9. Replace the metal plates that sit on the lower caliper (removed in step 3).

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10. Insert the new brake pads into the metal plates.

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11. Compress the piston to fit over the new pads, this needs to be compressed to allow the new thicker pads to be used. To compress these ones, you will need to use a pair of needle nose pliers and place them into 2 of the 4 grooves on the piston and turn clockwise, it will wind in, wind it back in until it will fit over the new pads.

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12. Replace the upper caliper and bolts (removed in step 1).

General
5. Place the wheel back on and do the stud bolts up finger tight.

6. Jack the car up.

7. Remove the jack stands.

8. Lower the car back onto the ground gentely.

9. Using the wheel brace tighten the stud bolts back up (start with one, then do the one diagonal to it next, and so forth until all are tight should be a * pattern).

10. Start the car, and roll it forwards slighty and gently apply the brakes to make sure they are working. If so...

11. Its time to bed the brakes - this allows the brake pads and the disc to basically match themselves up.

12. In a quiet street drive slowly (20km/h) and apply the brakes using about 1/2-3/4 pedal pressure, do not lockup or jab the brakes on, just brake firmly. Do this a few times, till your confident the brakes are working.

13. Increase the speed and do the same technique 6 times at 40km/h.

14. Increase the speed and do the same technique 20 times at 60km/h. Note: whilst doing this the brakes may start to smell and possibly smoke, this is ok.

15. Drive home with normal braking, as always try and avoid jabbing the brakes on or heavy lockup braking.

Finished!

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