Silvia Club of NSW
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CAR STALLS? WTF
https://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25158
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Author:  deniz86 [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:14 pm ]
Post subject:  CAR STALLS? WTF

hi guys... whenever im pushing my car around which involves alot of redlining my car seems to stall after i put it straight into nuteral..

this is how it is.. i push the car.. redlines once or twice.. then i have to come up to a set of lights... so i put it straight into nuteral and brake.. but as soon as i do this it stalls and engine cuts out.

the only way i can stop it from doing this is if i down gear.. but when i dont thrash it it doesnt do it..

my mate said its from the BOV

this true? and advice? :)

Author:  ZEi250t [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

if its an externally venting BOV, then this MAY cause this problem. it probably needs oiling and/or cleaning.

you mentioned before that your car is stock. if its the stock BOV. then you may have other problems

Author:  deniz86 [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:47 pm ]
Post subject: 

ZEi20T wrote:
if its an externally venting BOV, then this MAY cause this problem. it probably needs oiling and/or cleaning.

you mentioned before that your car is stock. if its the stock BOV. then you may have other problems



its a turbo smart BOV.. ill get it removed and cleaned and see if it makes a difference.

Author:  ZEi250t [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

you said before you car is stock in the boost thread. sounds like it isnt very stock afterall

Author:  Turbo_Brian [ Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

BOV not shutting properly after venting does exactly this, mine was doing it when I installed the BOV, because the spring I was supplied with was to short, and didn't push the piston back to the closed position, but after pulling the valve apart, cleaning it, and stretching the spring a little, it was much better.

B.

Author:  marshy [ Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:40 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have the same problem got the GFB 200SX BOV but it did it before i but this on. I have been told that if you put the Z32 AFM on it can stop the problem cant relly remember the reason why something about the air that doesnt go through the turbo gets pushed back up through the AFM and the stock afm struggles. This is what i was told, there is a specific name for what happens but im not sure what it is. A z32 AFM is about $400 dollars though, might as well get a aftermarket ECU and get rid of the AFM.

Author:  fergo308 [ Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:29 am ]
Post subject: 

no,you may as well re-circulate your BOV,and when it's time for an ecu,get a power fc.

microtechs and the like on sr's are like putting in C4's,a step backwards for anything other than idle or WOT driving,like on a strip.
engines running an afm work a LOT better than a map sensed setup ever can where driveability,precise tuning,and emissions are concerned.
why do you think more and more new cars are coming out with hot wire afms for their load signal? becasue it's more accurate. to pass the new emissions laws that are coming out,they need to be spot on with mixtures and the general engine tune. map sensors can't cut it anymore.


Justin...

Author:  Johnnilicte [ Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

just plumb back your BOV promblem solved, AFM & Atmospheric BOV do not mix.

If you like your whoosh/wank factor, I suggest you research and purchase yourself an ECU of your liking and price range that utilises a MAP sensor, that way you can remove your AFM and whoosh all you like.

Author:  ZEi250t [ Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:38 am ]
Post subject: 

well, my ato BOV works fine with my stock ecu.

anyway this thread was 6 months dead lol

Author:  Mr Bean [ Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:58 pm ]
Post subject: 

fergo308 wrote:
why do you think more and more new cars are coming out with hot wire afms for their load signal? becasue it's more accurate. to pass the new emissions laws that are coming out,they need to be spot on with mixtures and the general engine tune. map sensors can't cut it anymore.


Justin...



most new *common* cars ive seen are map sensor based. the reason powerfc's are considerd better is because of the amount of adjustable load points per map compared to a microtech and the like, they are more precise becase there is double the load points. i have next to std driveability with my microtech controled car, the tuner has alot todo with it.

Author:  danielb [ Thu Jun 14, 2007 2:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

I'm running an EMS Stinger ECU on my SR20, and besides not currently being a higher idle at cold starts, the car drives perfectly fine. It is MAP sensored.

Author:  j0nbubz [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:54 am ]
Post subject: 

Sorry to bring this thread back up from the dead.. but exact same problem I have.

After I rev hard (above 5k) and brake/neutral/come to a stop - the car sometimes stalls on me, if not, drops to very low reves (3-500).

I have a blitz BOV atmo at the moment.

How do I go about cleaning/repairing it, so it will shut off completely? (adjusting spring, etc)

Cheers
Jon

Author:  ZEi250t [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 1:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

adjust the spring tension tighter and it might not stall

also clean the BOV as it might be jamming slightly open

Author:  j0nbubz [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 4:47 pm ]
Post subject: 

thx for the reply..

Is the spring tension the turning knob on top? picture below

How exactly do i CLEAN the bov?

Image

Author:  tonyyy [ Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:46 am ]
Post subject: 

hi david

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