Silvia Club of NSW

im thinking about getting a boost controller, not the a electronic boost controller (ebc) but just a normal one the kinda looks like a blow off valve.
usually the manual boost controllers go in the engine bay but ive seen a turbo smart one for $200 which is a "in car" one.


with boost controllers what are the main difference between a electronic one or a manual one like the in car one that i might get.


is the turbosmart in-car manual boost controller hard to install????
what basically needs to be done???? from what ive research, to install a manual boost controller all i need is a T connector and a bit of cut snip and mount. is this right?



if i should stay away from manual boost controllers, what reason for and which ebc's are cheap and recommended???



alot of questions here but i hope someone can help me. this place has been a great source of info so far!!!!

if you just want to up the boost a manual boost controller would be best for ya dollar if you dont wont to spent much. ebc are more for fine tuning

cool cool.

is the in car manual one from turbo smart hard to install?

i dont know lots about cars.




is it just a matter of putting a t connector on the vacuum hose then putting it through (the device) the firewall then mounting say on the kick panel?

turbosmart = crap

well not really, but for the price there is much better out there

$200 is ebc area...

save up that lil bit of extra cash and get an EBC controller which is easy to udjust boost and gives you a reading at what it is set at

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93 180sx
SR20DET, GT2871 .86
13.2@105mph, 210kw@15psi

You'd be better off saving up the extra money for an electronic boost controller.

Manual boost controllers tend to spike - that is hold boost a little unevenly compared to ebcs.

Stay away from turbo smart, my old one used to spike by almost 2 psi.

Greddy Profec B series 2, awesome boost controller and the max it has spiked on my car is 0.4psi

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93 180sx
SR20DET, GT2871 .86
13.2@105mph, 210kw@15psi

Pretty much all manual bleed style boost controllers work exactly the same way, it's only looks that change.

wrong, there now exists needle valves, which is the 'old school' if you like and dont do much against wastegate creep, and there are the new ball and spring valve, which is much better imo

ive tried both and the latter is much better for wastegate creep

but both have downfalls, mainly in keeping boost level from dropping up top

using the IEBC, ive gotten a near perfect boost curve, i'll update my (old) post soon with pics and duty cycle maps that i used

OK I was misumnderstood there, there are very few of teh ball and sroping ones available (similar to reactor design).

What I was getting at is teh tap style are all essentially the saame

I've used needle valves,ball taps,and the later sprung valve types,and they're all complete crap in comparison to an EBC. there truly is no substitute for the real thing in this area.

EBC's ramp up the boost faster,with NO wastegate creep,NO spiking once they're set up,and give reliable boost control and on-the-fly adjustments to same everytime.

IMHO,you do the FBU,and after that,you go to an EBC. there is no middle ground. not when something like a profec b can be had for $200 second hand,and $400 odd new.


Justin...

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STI - Made in Texas,not Japan.

so are profec b seen as the best option for ebc?

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Cruise & Event Photos

I think for any of this information to be meaning full to you we need to cover off some basics. (please excuse lack of correct terminology)

The boost level in the factory turbo is normally controlled by the device which is bolted to the outside of the turbo. Vaccuum actuator???

This is basically a diaphram in the middle of a sealed container with a rod comming out of the middle of the diaphram. Sitting between the diaphram and the bottom of the semi sealed container (rod comes out the bottom) is a spring sitting over the top of the rod. On the other side (pressure side) of the diaphram is an inlet.

A bit of the boost pressure is routed into the inlet / pressure side and when sufficent pressure has built up on the pressure side, the spring resistance is over come and the rod moves which in turn opens the inbuilt wastegate.

This then reduces the pressure in the exhaust system which in turn slows the turbo from spinning as fast and the boost pressure drops. The factory ECU controls the electronic boost soleniod that is factory built in. (found near the passenger side strut) It periodically lets some of this pressure escape to stop the boost pressure going crazy under different driving conditions.

The primary purpose of any boost controller is to further bleed off some of this boost pressure so the spring can hold the wastegate closed for longer builder greater boost pressure.

The manual bleed off valve is a fairly crude device that basically uses a variable needle (or similar) to let some of this pressure escape. Where as the electronic ones can be tuned with a little more refinement and control the boost pattern a little more efficently.

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I didn’t break it, I just modified the operational status...
There are 10 types of people in this world, those that understand binary, and those that don't.

no,I reckon the SBC-R is the best unit on the market,but the profec is certainly affordable. noone asked for the best,I just gave a well known and common option.


Justin...

_________________
STI - Made in Texas,not Japan.

imo, the IEBC is, one reason being that you can map a whole boost curve, rather then only set desired boost level and ramp rate which is how pretty much how all other ebc's work. it also stores 2 independant maps, and one of the stranger features which i found to be really good, is how the throttle is alot more linear in delivery then previously.

one quick question, does the solenoid for the sbc-r sit inline with the wastegate line, or does it act as a bleed solenoid ?