Silvia Club of NSW

Why drive when you can drift?
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:12 pm 
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Quad T04
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will a s15 stock cooler fit the job at low boost levels ? whats the max amount of boost you would run using a s14 t28 thru a s15 intercooler ?

Doubtfull, get a front mount
Run up to around 1 bar on a S13 motor with the right support gear, i'm not sure if you can run as much on a higher come S14/15 motor.
Quote:
for the oil lines, will the sr20det sump bolt on ? then just using standard manifold and oil dump lines, it shud all fit up right ?

The oil doesn't return to the sump it returns to the block.

Quote:
water lines can be taken off the heater hoses etc ?

Thats where teh stock water inlet comes from, it returns to the block.

http://www.silviawa.com has heaps more info, there are a few of these conversions done over there, most powerfull is around 210rwkw running 1.1bar on GT28

Also this is a pic of where i drilled the stock SR20DE block to take the feeds for stock SR20DET turbo lines.
The oil feed hole is long, like 16cm or somthing deep into the block. Not to hard to drill and tap em all, only had to remove the sump, for the rest of the holes i pressurised the oil or water systems with a compressor to blow the swarf etc back out.
Engine is still going strong, made 158rwkw on 9psi from a S14 T28BB, new owner needs to tune it for 14psi me thinks :).
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 2:39 pm 
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thanks for that post. very informative. im used to working on mitsi engines where the turbo oil return goes to the sump. instead of tapping the block for the oil return, can custom lines be run to the sump ? just makes it easier as the engine doesnt have to be removed, u can just remove the sump and drill and tap a point there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:55 pm 
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Don't think I would attempt all that drilling and taping without removing the engine but it's your call (not sure you would get the drill in either).

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 4:10 pm 
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T25

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Location: Sydney
Car: 180SX
definately wouldnt use a stock cooler, need the coolest charge possible with the higher comp of the NA. Go frontmount.
My mate did this conversion on his escort, and 182go is right, the hardest thing was the water and oil lines, in particular the oil return from the turbo.
After a fair bit of research checking pin outs and wiring diagrams he ended up using a computer out of the U12 or U13 bluebird SR20DET - plugs straight in and desiged for dissy - DET's have coilpacks! May be tough to find one though. A set of turbo injectors and you are set.

Be carefull of big revs and 14+psi boost though. NA rods are a little thinner!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 11:51 am 
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T66
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has anyone read up on the C-red/GT Autosound turbo conversions done?? Apparently they've had some pretty amazing results.

When you say 4-5k for this, what's that price made up of
I can just imagine the below prices

Manifold - 350
Turbo - 1500 perhaps, depending on what you get.
ECU - 800
Intercooler - 400
Work - $1000-$1500?
Tune - $500??

Does that sound about right?

Can someone that's done it shine some light as to what problems they've run into?? or how there work went?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:15 pm 
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Quad T04
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if i was doing the conversion and the engine was already in the car i'd do this:
Custom water/oil lines (take the oil from the pressure sender and return to the tin part of the sump which is easily removable, take the water from the heater hoses. budget say $100-300 depending on who you get to make the lines.
T28BB or similar $600
Stainless manifold, you might as well $150
Big cooler kit $400
Turbo back exhaust, 3" cat $800
U12 SR20DET ECU or remap of the stock one $150-500 depenending on weather you have to pay for a tune and daughterboards etc
injectors 375cc SR20DET ones to match the U12 ECU or whatever you want to use if you go daughterboards $150-300
Walbro fuel pump $175
If you plan to track the car i'd add an oil cooler and bigger radiator $800
Some boost controller $45

So you'd be looking at between $2500 and 3500 all up in parts, if you are paying for labour it'll be more of course.
Also thats just engine wise, you'd be advised to at least upgrade your brake pads and the clutch might not last either unless it's already a HD item.
But it's alot cheaper then an SR20DET conversion and is definitely a fun engine to drive.
The main danger is if you have a bad tune, if it's wrong the motor will die, even if you run a U12 ECU i'd advise having the mixtures checked and the boost set on a dyno to make sure it's safe. Having said that i'd happily run 1 bar on a T28BB on an S13 SR20DE (S14/15 motors have higher compression which makes things more difficult).

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 1:00 pm 
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Takumi
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Nebuchernezzer wrote:
(take the oil from the pressure sender and return to the tin part of the sump which is easily removable,


I'd be a bit worried about returning the oil straight to the lower sump, because there's actually nice long channel in the alloy part where the oil return is supposed to go which lets the oil separate out of the foam that blows out of the turbo.
If you feed it straight into the lower sump I think you could end up with oil supply problems to the whole engine due to the oil pump basically sucking up air.

Maybe a small external tank could go between the turbo and the sump to let the oil settle out before returning?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 1:49 pm 
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Good ideal it's be pretty easy to fab to, or possibly just use an orphan OEM oil/air separator there.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:50 pm 
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yeah that's what I was thinking :)

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:38 am 
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DumHed wrote:
Nebuchernezzer wrote:
(take the oil from the pressure sender and return to the tin part of the sump which is easily removable,


I'd be a bit worried about returning the oil straight to the lower sump, because there's actually nice long channel in the alloy part where the oil return is supposed to go which lets the oil separate out of the foam that blows out of the turbo.
If you feed it straight into the lower sump I think you could end up with oil supply problems to the whole engine due to the oil pump basically sucking up air.

Maybe a small external tank could go between the turbo and the sump to let the oil settle out before returning?


I would be more concerned with the oil backing up in the tube. When it returns to the engine via the block, any cornering is less likely to return back up the return line. If you return it to the sump, the return point has to be much closer to the oil level of the sump, and any oil slopping around during cornering could possibly momentarily back up.

As for the other bit I can pretty much help out with everything you need. I have DET injectors, coil packs, CAS, turbo, manifold, black DET computer, cat back exhaust, you name it I have it for your conversion. PM me if you need bits.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:37 am 
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Quad T04
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You could well have oil running back up the tube momentarily but i doubt it'd matter since the tube is so long and the level it'd back up to would still be quite low in comparison to where the turbo is mounted.
I wouldn't be suprised if the level at which the tube is momentarily filled to is below the level of the OEM return location.
The oil air separator would help here if it were an issue by giving you a large volume in the drain line.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:11 pm 
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I took it he was planning on using a standard mount position. I wouldn't have said the tube was overly long. I guess it would also depend on how he welded the return line onto the sump. I was picturing it welded at right agles which would allow a fair amount of oil to be sent flying up the tube under hard cornering especially if it was close to oil level. The greater the angle the less chance of returning back up it. And as you righly point out not making a milkshake out of the oil is very important.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:44 pm 
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Quad T04
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Yeah i was thinking of standard mounting turbo mounting position too.
You'd probably have a good 60cm of piping instead of around 10cm like OEM.
I can't really see it being a problem, i've seen similar setups on other engines with turbos bolted on (4AGTE for example) working in a similar manner without troubles.
However if you think it's going to be an issue putting a baffle in the sump where the return line is or even a one way valve into the return lines are both quite easy to do.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:50 pm 
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Tell you might work nicely if he had a flap on the inside of the sump so oil can come in and not go out.

hmmm... on second thoughts maybe not cornering oil may hold the flap closed.

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